Edinburgh and I have a strange relationship. I was an undergraduate at the University of Edinburgh for four years, so the city should be full of fond student memories. And in some ways it is. Unlike many of my classmates, I learnt a lot academically: I threw myself into my courses on postmodernism and phonetics and other useless but lingua-geek topics that I can now barely remember with a gusto that most students reserve for downing a yard of ale. But it was also the period of my life during which I felt the least secure, the least confident, and the most depressed.
Fast forward 20+ years, and one of my closest Amsterdam friends has moved to Edinburgh for her job. She lives in Morningside, a neighbourhood I almost never frequented as a student, and has a gorgeous apartment with a guest room with my name on it. Surely in summer, with the weather (somewhat) sunny, an Edinburgh local to show me what I’d been missing all those years ago and an adult salary to throw at the situation, things should be different? Fortunately for me, they were.
Planning your visit to Edinburgh, Scotland
Before you start planning your whisky-and-haggis offensive, here are a few trip essentials:
- Getting there: From Amsterdam, both KLM and easyJet fly direct to Edinburgh Airport. For the widest comparison of times and prices across all airlines, try Expedia or Omio.
- Getting from the airport: Edinburgh Airport is around 25 minutes from the city centre – the Airlink 100 bus runs frequently and drops you right in the centre of town.
- Getting around: Edinburgh’s city centre is compact and very walkable, and Lothian Buses covers the wider city well. If you fancy exploring at your own pace, bike rental is a great option for getting through the city’s many green spaces.
- Where to stay: Browse the full range of hotels, guesthouses and apartments on Booking.com.
- Tours & experiences: From whisky tastings to literary walking tours, find the best Edinburgh experiences on Viator or GetYourGuide.
12 of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, Scotland
This Edinburgh restaurant guide was first written in 2023, but has subsequently been updated with recommendations from this very same friend, Megan. She’s a business consultant by day but a fellow foodie by night – so you’re in good hands!
New Scottish cuisine in Edinburgh
I’ve called this section “new Scottish” but in other guides I might call it “modern European”. You know the type of food I mean: local ingredients but treated in different, innovative ways by creative chefs who have clearly travelled.
The Scran & Scallie
Scottish celebrity chef Tom Kitchin was a wee babe when I was at university (and, like I said, I never had any money anyway) so I’d not had the pleasure of trying out his eponymous restaurant: The Kitchin. This time around, I may have been richer but I certainly wasn’t flush, so we headed instead to his more affordable and accessible gastropub: The Scran & Scallie. I’d been craving fish pie for days, so I was thrilled to be presented with a steaming mound of creamy mash, insulating layer upon layer of fish and prawns in a pillowy white sauce. Comfort food incarnate.
Ardfern
The third venture from chef Roberta Hall-McCarron (of The Little Chartroom and eleanore), Ardfern is an all-day café, bar and bottle shop down by the shore in Leith. The menu is an eclectic mix: local Scottish ingredients treated with a decidedly international hand (Megan mentioned Yorkshire puddings stuffed with tongue). There are fantastic doughnuts too, plus brunch and Sunday roasts if you’re visiting earlier in the day. Come evening, the small plates range from venison black pudding with rhubarb chutney to asparagus flatbread with duck egg and ricotta. The wine list runs to over 100 bottles, available to drink in or take away, which makes it a great spot whether you’re after a full dinner or just a glass and a snack by the water.
The Palmerston
Located in the West End, The Palmerston takes the quality of its ingredients seriously: working directly with Scottish farmers, growers and fishermen, changing its menu daily, and buying whole animals to butcher in-house. But it’s the bakery that sets it apart: all bread and pastries are made fresh on the premises. Megan was particularly taken with the ricotta, baby leeks, honey, chilli and pine nuts on toast – a dish that sounds both comforting and sophisticated.
The Black Grape
For something more relaxed, The Black Grape on the Royal Mile does small plates alongside a solid wine list and some very decent cocktails – think limoncello spritzes and a pink passionfruit negroni. Megan was particularly impressed by the wild mushroom spring roll, which arrived more burrito-sized than bite-sized. A good shout if you want to graze rather than commit to a full sit-down dinner.
International food in Edinburgh
Like the rest of the UK, Edinburgh has heaps of international restaurants – from authentic Indian curry houses to Mexican taquerias. These are just a few favourites, either from me or Megan or both of us!
Solti
No trip to Scotland would be complete without a proper curry, and restaurant Solti came highly recommended for its Nepali and Indian dishes. To start, we tried the momo: steamed vegan dumplings that came with a spicy, fragrant sauce. Next, we ordered a classic saag panner that was ever-so-slightly sweet, plus the “solti ko salmon” that featured a spicy, tomato-based sauce laden with chunks of fish. Both were delicious, especially when mopped up with the thin-yet-fluffy garlic naan.
Dumplings of China
Continuing the international theme, I was also thrilled to discover the dumpling capital of Edinburgh: Dumplings of China in Tollcross. It’s a cheap and cheerful BYOB kinda place, but they serve half a dozen steamed “rainbow dumplings” (stuffed with shrimps, pork, beef, veggies, etc, depending on the colour) plus a wide range of main dishes, from umami-rich aubergine to soy-braised pork belly. I only wish we’d had room to taste more!
Pomelo
Tucked away off the Meadows, Pomelo is the neighbourhood restaurant of Jun Au, a chef of Chinese heritage who you might have spotted on Great British Menu. The menu takes classic Chinese ideas and gives them a playful, fusion twist. Megan raved about the wonton nachos, where veggie mapo tofu is served on whipped tofu with fried wonton skins for scooping. Dinner books up fast, but there’s also a walk-in lunch and a Sunday brunch worth knowing about.
The Cheese Lounge @ I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger’s
What’s better than a cheese shop? A cheese lounge inside a cheese shop! If you visit I.J. Mellis in Morningside, keep walking past the cheese counter until you reach the back of the premises and you’ll find what looks like a Parisian café. There, you can order a whole range of cheese-based dishes as well as a selection of (predominantly French) wines by the glass or bottle. We tried the platter of four cheeses plus charcuterie and the warm raclette with potatoes and finocchiona, washed down with an unfiltered Loire Valley red blend. The service was extremely friendly and the prices very reasonable. In short: I.J. Mellis is every cheese lover’s dream, whether you stay for dinner or just pick up some fromage to take home.
Gringo Supperclub
For something a little off the beaten track, keep an eye on Gringo Supperclub, run by Kevin McPadden out of his West End home. The format is a multi-course tasting menu inspired by the flavours of Latin America – influences range from Mexican to Argentinian – plus occasional live fire asado evenings in the garden. Spaces are limited, tickets go on sale a month in advance and routinely sell out within the hour, so you’ll need to be quick. BYOB.
Brunch in Edinburgh
I don’t remember any kind of brunch culture in Edinburgh during my student days. But luckily, that’s now all changed, and those who believe breakfast is the most important meal of the day will be in for a treat!
Loudons
By sheer coincidence, Megan’s favourite brunch restaurant happened to be the very same brunch restaurant my niece works at. So I had double the reason to check it out! After a homemade sour-cherry lemonade, my order of Scottish smoked salmon on brioche toast with celeriac remoulade, boiled egg and beetroot hummus arrived. It was every bit as delicious as it sounds. Loudons has two locations: one in Fountainbridge and another at New Waverley (and you’d be advised to book ahead at both).
The Edinburgh Larder
Just off Morningside Road, The Edinburgh Larder is Megan’s other go-to neighbourhood brunch spot (there’s a second location in the city centre too). Her order is generally the eggs benedict, but – crucially – on toast rather than an English muffin. The logic is sound: with that much hollandaise and egg yolk, you want something with proper structure and absorption. The wild mushroom hash is another favourite: potatoes, black garlic, mushroom ketchup, fried mushrooms and a poached egg on top.
Lannan Bakery
Lannan Bakery is the solo venture of Darcie Maher, formerly of The Palmerston (see above), who built a cult following for her pastries there before striking out on her own in Stockbridge. Lannan is essentially a takeaway operation – grab your order and find a spot nearby – but don’t let that put you off. The menu changes seasonally and sells out fast (the queues are real and well-documented), so go early. Megan’s picks from recent visits include a croissant with prosciutto, gordal olives and fontina, and a cinnamon and cream cheese crémeux for those with a sweet tooth. Lannan is a TikTok/Instagram favourite, but apparently it’s one of the few that’s worth the hype!
Cocktail bars in Edinburgh
Last time I was in Edinburgh, we hit a few cocktail bars that were too good not to mention. Be sure to make a reservation at Panda & Sons: an underground speakeasy in New Town serving some lethally strong (and often smoky) concoctions. Alternatively, head to The Wildcat in Tollcross for £5 Negronis and a range of creative cocktails – I loved the spicy, fruity Pesca Piccante. And finally, Scotland is the home of Scotch whisky so if you fancy a tipple or two, duck into The Canny Man in Morningside. Whisky shots aside, you’ll get lost in amongst all the nooks and crannies…