‘Tis the season… for Christmas markets! And while the Netherlands is home to a smattering of festive fairs, those in Germany are (I’m ashamed to say) far superior. The glühwein is tastier, the sausages smokier and the knitted hats woollier. If you’re coming from the Netherlands, Belgium or even the UK, Aachen is one of the easier Christmas markets to reach, given that the city is just east of the Dutch/Belgian borders. It’s a cathedral town with a charming old centre that – in December – forms the backdrop to dozens of festively lit stalls selling Christmas baubles, wintry accessories and, of course, plenty of seasonal street food and warming booze. Honestly, even in the rain, it’s magical.
Where to eat and drink in Aachen
With all this being said, at a certain point you’ll be looking for something that goes beyond bratwurst to soak up all that glühwein and eierpunsch (much like eggnog). I’d advise you to book well ahead at any and all Aachen restaurants during Christmas market season, because the city is overrun by visitors – all looking to eat out at the same time. These restaurant recommendations have been put together over a couple of different trips, and range from traditional German dinners to modern brunch dishes.
Traditional German food: Am Knipp
With its decoratively tiled walls and stained glass windows, Am Knipp is about as traditionally German as you can get – which means it’s all about the schnitzel. Mine came with a fiery pink peppercorn sauce, crunchy fried potatoes and a perfectly dressed salad. I’d recommend washing it down with the Benediktiner Weissbier Dunkel – a dark, malty beer that’s perfect for winter. Am Knipp’s prices are pretty reasonable, too (at least, in comparison with Amsterdam).
Modern Mediterranean meals: NOIMA
At Greek-inspired restaurant NOIMA, you’ll find mezze dishes aplenty and some Mediterranean wines to go with them. We enjoyed the whipped feta and aubergine salads as well as the spicy sausage (loukaniko) and meatballs (keftedakia). Lots of the mains looked tempting, but I decided to go for the mixed grill: pork skewers, beef kofte, lamb cutlets and more sausage. Even with the help of the dog, I couldn’t finish it all! Still, I appreciate a generous portion in these straitened times, and NOIMA was a friendly and inviting place to spend an evening with friends.
Korean-inspired brunch: Café de Luna
For the morning after your Christmas market revelry, look no further than Café de Luna, just south of Aachen old town. Instead of the usual avocado toast, Café de Luna specialises in Korean-style sandwiches made with pillowy brioche, perfectly scrambled eggs, the obligatory avocado and a range of other toppings (we went for bacon). It was not only delicious but hit the hangover spot perfectly. The coffee was also excellent, and they offer a range of other interesting-looking homemade drinks and teas.
Beer and bites: Café Kittel
Alternatively, if hair-of-the-dog beer and flammkuchen are the only way to send your hangover packing, head to Café Kittel. It’s a bit student-grunge, but Kitt’ll hit the spot. (See what I did there?) On the menu, you’ll find plenty of German pilsners (and stronger) on offer, as well as a few different variations on flammkuchen: from traditional speck and onions to veggie versions with mozzarella and pesto. There’s other breakfast fare too, but when in Germany I can’t resist a flammkuchen…
Coffee with a view: Café Dom
One of the best coffees I drank in Aachen came from Café Dom, where the baristas serve up a perfect flat white (with vegan milks, if you prefer). The menu features an excellent selection of breakfast dishes, from stuffed croissants to yoghurt and granola, depending on whether you feel like going healthy or hearty. The décor is hipster grandma and the view is unbeatable: take the love seat at the back of Café Dom and you’ll be looking straight up at Aachen’s cathedral.
Cocktail lounge bar: The Gin Library
If you’re all glühwein-ed out and are looking for a cocktail, wander past Aachen’s Rathaus (town hall) to The Gin Library. More than just gin, you’ll find an extensive cocktail menu featuring everything from old classics to modern creations at this laidback lounge bar. I tried the French 75 (a mix of gin, lemon and bubbles) and the Whiskey Sour – both of which tasted exactly as they should.
Late-night kebabs (but good!): tat Gemüsekebab
It’s pretty rare that I end up eating a kebab at midnight these days, but what can I say? Christmas markets seem to bring out my younger self… Luckily, the kebabs I’ve eaten in Germany have generally been a lot better than those I indulged in after nights out at university in the UK. One such example is tat Gemüsekebab, which was within stumbling distance of our hotel. I ordered the Dürüm wrap (texturally, it was like a softer version of the Turkish pizza we get in Amsterdam) with shavings of that questionable meat and lashings of garlic and chilli sauce. Not one of my finest gastronomic hours, but damn good late-night snacking material.
PS. If you have neither the time nor the energy to go all the way to Germany for glühwein, I’ve published my own recipe here for everyone’s favourite winter drink!