An Eastsider’s Guide: Where to Stay and Eat in Amsterdam Oost

I’ve been meaning to write a series of in-depth Amsterdam neighbourhood guides for years, but then I realised there’s only one neighbourhood I really know in that level of detail: my own. I live in Amsterdam Oost – known by international visitors at Amsterdam East – but within that fairly large stadsdeel there’s probably a square kilometre that I know better than any other. I think of it as being bordered by Oosterpark to the north, Transvaalkade to the south, the Amstel river to the west and Oostpoort to the east. What follows is a guide not to the fanciest restaurants or the most popular bars, but to my personal favourites: neighbourhood pizza joints, hidden gem restaurants and cosy wine bars that can count on my custom, plus the hotels that I book friends and family into when they come to visit.

Where to stay in Amsterdam Oost

I live in a typical Amsterdam apartment, which means there’s not a whole lot of room for visitors. They usually book into one of my recommended hotels in the neighbourhood.

Budget-friendly hotels in Oost

• The Social Hub – good value hotel on the Wibautstraat, the Social Hub Amsterdam City has excellent co-working spaces if you need to get some work done between sightseeing.
• Hotel Casa – where my parents always stay when they come to visit: Hotel Casa is no-frills, well-located near Amstel station, and easy on the wallet. Cool rooftop bar as well.
• Volkshotel – a stone’s throw from my house, the Volkshotel was originally home to Dutch newspaper de Volkskrant, but is now a reasonably priced hotel with a good café, coworking space and events.

Splash-out hotels in Oost

• Pillows Maurits at the Park – a beautifully restored 1908 building overlooking Oosterpark, the rather lengthily named Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Maurits at the Park is also home to Fitz’s – a gorgeous 1920s-style cocktail bar.
• The Manor – on the southeast corner of Oosterpark, The Manor Amsterdam is distinctive from the outside with its candy-stripe awnings. Inside, it’s both comfortabl and luxurious, with a welcoming lounge area.
• InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam – Amsterdam’s grande dame, right on the river since 1867. More commonly known as the Amstel Hotel, it has an elegant afternoon tea and one of the best pools in the city.

Where to eat in Amsterdam Oost

Alba

Nestled into a leafy square just off Wibautstraat, Alba’s extensive, covered terrace is perfect for warm evenings. There’s a varied menu of natural, organic wines by the glass, which the servers will let you taste before you decide if you ask nicely. But for those who fancy themselves as sommeliers, there’s an expansive list of wines by the bottle to select from. On the food front, Alba is hard to categorise. We tried a perfectly devilled egg, which felt classically French, but later ate an Asian fusion dish of fresh peas with tofu and crispy chilli oil, side by side with Italian ricotta gnocchi and courgette. And finished up with hanger steak with spiced sweet potato purée and chipotle dressing. It’s been just as good (and varied) on every visit since.

Nomads

Every six months, the aptly named restaurant Nomads in Oostpoort takes you on a culinary journey through a different country, serving you four, five or six courses. The first night I visited, that journey was to Jordan. The Nomads Experience started with three mezze-style dishes: sweet ‘n spicy muhammara (red pepper and walnut paste); fragrant falafel with yoghurt dip; and smooth but simple hummus – all excellent, and all served with fluffy, warm, whole-wheat pitas. The subsequent courses included razor clams spiked with preserved lemons; lamb tartare with onions and capers; and soft, smoky aubergine with a coriander and basil dressing. The main courses of cauliflower and labneh and grilled duck with beetroot were just as delightful, and the service was spectacular too. The experience has been equally marvellous when I’ve been back for the Portuguese and Vietnamese editions on subsequent occasions.

Roef

Not far from Nomads, restaurant Roef has been delivering accomplished cooking since day one. The menu is made up of small bites, medium-sized à la carte dishes, and large sharing plates (or you can opt for the chef’s menu) – allowing you to try a bit of everything. The “Bites” all offered a pop of small but perfectly formed flavour: Asian oysters were umami-sweet with miso and spring onion, kaassoufflé was laced with jalapeno and truffle, and steak tartare on slices of brioche was accented with sesame and bottarga. Next, we tried an elegant presentation of red gurnard with yellow beetroot discs and buttermilk sauce studded with jalapeno and lime gel (perhaps my favourite dish of the evening). The brandade was reminiscent of a Portuguese cod croquette, but served with Dutch witlof and a punchy salsa verde. While an earthy, autumnal salad of red beetroot, blackberries, hazelnuts and goat yoghurt brought a welcome hit of veggies. Lastly, we shared the “Tomapork” main: essentially a hefty pork chop with a savoury red onion and mustard seed chutney, plus chips and Brussels sprouts.

I was eating out with my parents, and Mr Foodie Senior (aka my dad) was effusive in his praise for the contrasting flavours of the small dishes, plus their juxtaposition with the hearty meat ‘n chips main. And if he’s happy, I’m happy!

Omri

Krugerplein is an underrated square in Oost, but it’s one I pass through frequently – spotting the old men playing boules in the dappled shade. It’s also home to Omri: a Mediterranean bistro with a generous sunny terrace that transports you straight to southern Europe. I loved Omri’s hand-rolled vine leaves with labneh, gently yielding fish cakes, nutty roasted spitskool and smoky contrefilet – not to mention the spritzy southern cocktails. Their wine list is short but well-curated, with high-quality yet affordable wines from Valencia, Sicily and the South of France (although their wine temperature control could do with some work). Omri isn’t flashy or overrun with influencers; it’s just getting on with the business of looking after its local guests with Mediterranean flavours and southern hospitality.

Troef

Troef has quickly become one of Amsterdam’s most sought-after dining spots, often fully booked despite its tucked-away location off the River Amstel. What makes Troef special is not only its warm and inviting atmosphere – a mix of ski chalet charm, French bistro elegance and Dutch café cosiness – but also its wine cellar. With glass walls on all sides giving guests a voyeuristic view of a truly impressive collection of bottles, Troef’s wine cellar is a genuine draw for people like me. Meanwhile, the food is creative yet casual, with signature dishes like Giethoorn eel with crispy potatoes and horseradish foam, complemented by a glass of German Pinot Blanc. Or lobster with an antiboise of baby artichokes, cherry tomatoes, creamy bisque and zesty orange, alongside a crisp, steely Chablis. A lovely spot to take your parents, a date or someone special.

Clos

On perhaps my favourite square, Beukenplein, you’ll find Clos – a convivial wine bar with a cosy interior and a covered, heated terrace outside (I believe they even provide blankets in winter). The wines by the glass are arranged to make it easy to select one you’re bound to like, and the staff are extremely helpful with recommendations – including off-menu suggestions. There are plenty of top-notch snacks to nibble while you tipple: think good-quality charcuterie and cheeses, lotus root tempura, porchetta-style veal with fennel and tarragon – and some more substantial main dishes as well. I enjoyed the buttery Roussillon Chardonnay and crunchy Cab Franc that we drank at Clos recently, but the wines have been fantastic on every other occasion I’ve visited as well.

Le Due Sicilië

Down an unassuming side street near Amstel station you’ll find Le Due Sicilië – a Sicilian restaurant with all the warmth and sunshine in their food and service that you’d expect from Italy’s southernmost island. On various visits over the years, I’ve tried their pulpo (octopus), parmigiana di melanzane (cheesy baked aubergines), ziti pasta with a rich and meaty tomato-based sauce, tagliatelle with prawns and pistachio (a typically Sicilian combination) and many more delicious dishes. Everything has been spectacular, especially when washed down with a well-rounded glass of Nero d’Avola.

Pazzi Oost

Pazzi Oost is a casual neighbourhood pizzeria that I frequently end up in with my group of girlfriends after a swim in the Amstel in summer or a brisk dog walk in winter. Located on Steve Bikoplein, it has a wood-fired brick oven (which makes it very cosy in winter) – turning out pizza classics like the capricciosa (with prosciutto, artichokes and mushrooms), the tartufo (with truffle sauce, fontina cheese and ham) and the salsiccia (with fennel sausage, rocket and parmesan). I’ve also never been disappointed by their daily changing pizza van de dag, mixed antipasti or sgroppino. And the service is always lovely and welcoming (including to my little Yorkie).

The Cottage

One of the few truly British restaurants in Amsterdam, The Cottage is a lovely spot for breakfast, afternoon tea or Sunday roast – just on the edge of Watergraafsmeer. I generally order one of the egg-based dishes: scrambled eggs with hot-smoked salmon, horseradish and watercress, perhaps. Or Bombay eggs with Indian spices, coriander and pickled red onion. But The Cottage also serves a Full English for those with a hearty appetite in the morning. If you’re not too full, be sure to order their scones with proper English clotted cream and homemade jam for dessert. A taste of my childhood.

The Greek Embassy

With its sunny terrace on the Amstel river, The Greek Embassy is always busy (especially in summer). But you’re not just here to catch rays. Their taramásalata is smoky-meets-creamy, savoury and delicious with lightly toasted pita. Their courgette fritters are light, fluffy and delightful with the accompanying fresh tzatziki. And their mixed grill is a meaty, succulent combo of beef patties, lamb chops and more. The Greek Embassy also serves good coffees and Greek wines, which you don’t come across too often in Amsterdam.

Looking for tips elsewhere in Amsterdam? Read my broader neighbourhood guide or find all my culinary recommendations in my Amsterdam Restaurant & Wine Guides.