November: celeriac, two ways

These days, in posh restaurants, they like to do things three ways. They also like serving ‘heritage’ vegetables – the so-called forgotten fruits of our ancestors’ labours. You know what I mean: ‘Black salsify: three ways’.

It’s all a bit trendy and pretentious, but then again maybe they have a point: it’s interesting to make the most of the versatility of a vegetable, especially one that doesn’t often get a look-in.

In a restaurant review I read recently, I saw celeriac described as a ‘vintage vegetable’. That has to be even cooler than a heritage vegetable, right? I mean, that’s the food equivalent of a pair of vintage leather boots in comparison to a National Heritage stately home…

So with celeriac I reckon I’m ticking all the latest boxes of culinary cool: it’s vintage, or heritage, or forgotten; I cooked it two ways (although I was eating one damn bulb of the thing for about four days); and it’s in season. Triple Whammy.

First, I made a dauphinoise out of it, with cream, milk, garlic, nutmeg, sage and parmesan. I served it with pork chops and caramelised apples.

Next, I mashed it with cream and wholegrain mustard, and served it with more pork – this time with a sauce made of prunes, chestnuts, madeira and cream.