The Swiss wine region of Lavaux is characterised by its steeply terraced vineyards (recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site), breathtaking views over the sparkling sapphire water of Lake Geneva, and a patchwork of sun-drenched slopes that trap the warmth reflected off the lake. We visited the Lavaux region for Lutry’s “Fête des Vendanges” (harvest festival), which happens annually at the end of September. But there are plenty of food and wine experiences to be had year-round in the Lavaux area, for the curious oenophile.
Swiss wine for beginners
Switzerland produces only a fraction of the world’s wine, and most of it’s drunk domestically; exports are minimal thanks to the country’s small production volumes and high costs.
Lavaux vineyard experiences and more
Whether you visit for the festivals, the fondue, or just to sip Chasselas among the vines, Lavaux proves that Swiss wine is best discovered in its natural habitat.
Vineyard hike from Lutry to Cully (and further)
There are all sorts of hiking routes, marked with little yellow signs, running throughout the vineyards of the Lavaux region. And although there are some official routes, such as that from Lutry to Saint-Saphorin, it’s easy enough to just amble from winery to winery, following your nose. We were staying in Lutry, so we started there and wound our way eastwards to Cully, stopping at various wineries along the way and taking the train back again at the end.
My favourite finds were the little “honesty fridges” that we discovered next to the vineyards at Domaine Vitis Musicalis and Domaine de Cretaz, but I’m sure there are plenty more at other points along the route. They’re exactly what they sound like: a fridge stocked with bottles and/or half bottles of wine, which you can take for a modest sum (we paid between 7.50 and 10 CHF for a half bottle of Chasselas) posted into a slotted cash box. There are dinky plastic glasses available as well, and often picturesque picnic areas in amongst the vines where you can enjoy your wine. Best idea ever!
Editor’s note: at Domaine Vitis Musicalis, we also discovered they offer a kind of “picnic fondue” that you carry on your back to a little hut nestled into the side of the vineyard. It looked like a one-of-a-kind experience that would be stunningly romantic, but unfortunately by the time we came across it we’d just eaten fondue at Tour de Gourze (see below). So I can’t speak to the experience, but it’s an opportunity I would grab with both hands if I came across it again!
Caveau des Vignerons, Lutry
The clue’s in the title at this cave-like bar, serving local wines that you’d struggle to find outside Lavaux in half bottles, full bottles and 500 ml in-between sizes. We loved Caveau des Vignerons’ rosé blend, Pinot Noir and oaked red blend, which were good value at around 13 CHF per half bottle. Snacks included Tomme cheese, terrine au poivre (pâté with peppercorns) and viande séchée (dried beef) – all of which were well priced and generously portioned. Cash only.
Street Cellar, Lausanne
“The wine bar that breaks the rules” is how Street Cellar describes itself – and that’s in part thanks to the fact that it eschews wine in glass bottles for wine on draft, served to you from taps inlaid in giant barrels. Street Cellar works directly with small-batch, local producers (and without bottle manufacturers!), which means prices are very reasonable – especially by Swiss standards. We loved the easy-drinking Chasselas from Epesses for only €6 a glass, the crunchy Cabernet Franc from La Côte, and the Garanoir from Neuchâtel (a cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner). Owner Nicholas is both helpful in his recommendations and extremely passionate about what he does – definitely worth a visit.
Restaurant de la Tour de Gourze, Bourg-en-Lavaux
You’ll need to drive up a few narrow, vertiginous mountain roads to reach the restaurant at La Tour de Gourze, but it’s worth it for the Swiss fondue and sweeping views over Lake Geneva (allegedly – the evening I visited, thick cloud and rain obscured the view). The fondue is simple and honest: cheese, booze, bread, potatoes – although there are of course other things on offer. The wine list is equally simple and very local: we drank a Chasselas from nearly Saint-Saphorin whose acidity cut through the richness of the cheese with ease.