A Boozy Guide to Southwest Michigan: Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries

Even a visit to my family-in-law on the shores of Lake Michigan could not deter me from what has become perhaps an unhealthy travel mission: track down wineries; taste their wares. The reputation of Michigan’s wines, based solely on anecdotal evidence, is mixed. On the one hand, “wine people” (pros and enthusiasts alike) seemed to have plenty of positive and interesting things to say about it. On the other, many average wine drinkers I spoke to were pretty scathing.
  One aunt-in-law confidently declared that all Michigan wines are sweet. Another told me that her local winery had given up on selling Michigan wines altogether and was now importing all their grapes from California. A visit to Shady Creek (admittedly in northwest Indiana, but a stone’s throw from the Michigan border) at least partially proved her point. There were a handful of Michigan wines (mostly terrible, some sweet) and the rest were Californian (also mostly terrible). Sorry, Shady Creek – you have a beautiful location but the bottles are more bachelorette party than Bacchus wine festival.

Undeterred, I canvassed the opinion of a few in-the-know wine folk who I trusted could help me in my quest. Armed with their knowledge, I ventured into Michigan feeling optimistic. Along the way, I also encountered a couple of breweries and a distillery, which I thought merited a mention as well, so I’ve rolled these into a complete boozy guide to Southwest Michigan. If you manage a winery, a brewery and a distillery all in one day, congratulations – you’ve scored a hattrick!

Wineries in the Lake Michigan Shore AVA

The area immediately east of Lake Michigan has its own American Viticultural Area (AVA) known as Lake Michigan Shore. The region contains 90% of Michigan’s vineyards, with the lake providing protection from the extremely cold winters and extending the growing season well into the autumn. A group of enterprising wineries in the area have joined forces to promote the “Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail” (you’ll see blue signs along the roads), which is a great way to explore the region’s quality wines. I only managed to visit a few, but I’m keen to come back and taste more.

Domaine Berrien Cellars, Berrien Springs

Specialising in grape varieties traditionally grown in France’s Rhone Valley, Domain Berrien Cellars is one of the so-called “Rhone Rangers” – of which there are over 100 across America but very few in Michigan. Visiting Domain Berrien means driving through the vineyards to reach the tasting room, where you can try small tasting samples of five wines for $15. I decided to focus on the Rhone varieties (Marsanne, Viognier and Syrah – taking home a bottle of the delicious oaked Marsanne) but there are over 20 wines on offer, including an easy-drinking summer rosé made from a field hybrid known as St. Vincent and a rustic red made from Lemberger (aka Blaufrankisch). The person serving us (hi Jennifer!) was extremely knowledgeable, and the overall experience was one I’d highly recommend. Bonus points for being dog friendly.

Hickory Creek Winery, Buchanan

About ten minutes’ drive south of Berrien, you’ll find the idyllic red farmhouse that’s home to Hickory Creek: a winery specialising in small batch, local production that’s only available to buy on location. Again, a flight of five wines (out of a choice of 15) will set you back $15 – so I’m assuming this is relatively standard along the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail. The outdoor area offers lovely sweeping views, but there’s a cosy indoor tasting room too (that’s also dog friendly). Overall, I felt the price-quality ratio (based on bottle price) at Domaine Berrien was higher than that at Hickory Creek, though I very much enjoyed their cherry-and-vanilla-scented Cabernet Franc and would gladly order it again if I were ever to find it on a local restaurant menu.

Stranger Wine Company, Buchanan

Not technically part of the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail but certainly within the same AVA is Stranger Wine Company. And yes, I’ve saved the best for last. Husband and wife team Maxx and Sidney oversee a group of geographically dispersed vineyards planted with older vines, plus an elegant, minimalist tasting room that only opened this summer in downtown Buchanan. Their Grüner Veltliner is clean and saline but rich and dreamy. Their Chardonnay may be made from California clones, but it’s flinty and Chablis-like in style. And their Cab Franc is both bright/lively and structured/crunchy. All Stranger Wines are made using low-intervention methods, but they’re squeaky clean – no gym socks or mouse nests here. My only disappointment was that I discovered Stranger Wine Co. so late in my trip that I couldn’t buy more to bring home.

In the course of my research, I was also recommended to visit Dablon, Cody Kresta and Modales but I ran out of time. For other Michigan wineries worth a visit, check out the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail’s website: miwinetrail.com/memberwineries

Breweries in Southwest Michigan

Moving briefly onto breweries, Michigan also seems to boast a burgeoning craft beer scene. So if you’re travelling with companions who are more into beer than wine, you can compromise and work your way through both!

Beer Church, New Buffalo

I do love a converted church, especially when used for my favourite pastimes: eating and drinking. Beer Church carries the divine theme right through to the names of its brews: think “Pontius Pilate” (a hoppy IPA) and “Crooked Cross” (a cream ale). But I opted for the “Peach Be With You”: a juicy, fruity IPA that hit the spot on a summer evening. If you’re needing some food by this point in your boozy journey, Beer Church also offers generous pizzas and sandwiches – the bread for the latter also made in the wood-fired pizza oven. I got the wagyu pastrami sandwich – which was huge, meaty and delicious – but everything that came past my table looked pretty good.

Ghost Isle Brewery, New Buffalo

Along the Galien River just outside central New Buffalo, you’ll reach what looks like a giant, glass-fronted shipping container but is actually a brewery. Ghost Isle makes some of my favourite craft beers in Michigan, including the “Stoner’s Paradise”: a hazy, tropical pale ale that’s the perfect balance of fruity and hoppy. But if you can’t decide, order a flight of five beers before picking your favourite, and soak up the booze with some of the brewpub’s stellar burgers, salads and sandwiches. Last but not least, don’t forget a side order of Ghost Isle’s crunchy-meets-tangy fried pickle spears!

Distilleries in Michigan

Full disclosure: I only made it to one distillery. My liver was begging for mercy, ok?

Journeyman Distillery, Three Oaks

Roughly between New Buffalo and Buchanan is Three Oaks, a small town that’s home to the Featherbone and Corsets Factory dating back to the 1800s. This historic space has subsequently been converted into a distillery and events location thanks to Journeyman, which has been distilling spirits in the restored buildings since 2011. Journeyman offers regular tours that give you a flavour of the factory’s history, some basic background about the distillation process, and of course a chance to taste many of the spirits on offer. A standard tasting includes 14 spirits, from smooth, butterscotch-rich whiskey to aromatic, botanical gin, plus specialty drinks flavoured with coffee or cherry, for example. You’ll want to decide on a designated driver (or a taxi) before you start, because the ABV of these drinks is no joke! (Although a quick session at the putting green afterwards does help sober you up a little…)

That’s all, booze hounds! Planning a trip to the Midwest? Check out my foodie guides to Michigan City and Chicago!