Open for business


Saturday was an utterly foodilicious day. I had a friend staying from the UK, but I’d warned her that we might need to ‘do some research’. Research, in this case, meant wine tasting for potential Hidden Kitchen wines in the Amsterdamse Bos, followed by dinner at Restaurant Open. Oh, and taking some notes about them both. So not exactly a tough day in the office then…

After getting lost (twice) and finding (on both occasions) that we were actually in the right place all along, we made it up the wooden steps to the glass-and-wood-clad giant container that is Open, suspended above the stretch of water between the Westerdok and the IJ behind Centraal Station. The terrace, while not ideal for vertigo sufferers, looked extremely tempting – even in the chilly late-March breeze.

But we headed inside and ordered a bottle of Lorraine rosé (for €23, which I know has been marked up from the €7 I pay for it at the Wijnkelder, which I know has already been marked up for retail customers) while we waited for our table. Pleasingly (for me, though possibly less so for the chefs) our table was right next to the kitchen, so I could spy on all the plating up. It made our menu decisions more difficult, because everything looked pretty good, but we eventually went for all three specials plus one à la carte soup.

Fennel and saffron soup with mussels

The latter described itself as fennel and saffron soup with mussels, though its flavours had distinct Indian spice undertones with a kick of chilli from the (I assume chilli-infused) oil on top. Really very good.

Langoustines with garlic pesto and cucumber mousse

My English friend had langoustines that had been halved and shown a lick of heat and a lot of garlic. They came with some well dressed rocket, home-made pesto and a cucumber mousse, the last of which was perfectly nice but in no way stood up to the rest of the flavours. Oh, and a large finger bowl, which was rather unnecessary since most of the work had been done for us. What might have been useful, however, was a plate for my mussel shells, which ended up on the dish with the bread for want of anywhere better to put them.

Red mullet with oyster-cream sauce

Next, I had pan-fried red mullet with a creamy, oyster-y sauce, new (slightly undercooked) potatoes, roasted tomatoes, fennel and courgette. An accomplished dish that I can’t really fault, but neither did it set my world on fire. The lamb with chickpeas and various vegetables was also bobbing merrily around in a small sea of sauce – well seasoned, with light North African influences.

Lamb with chickpeas

The bill came to €50 each including a tip (but no dessert) and the service was good if not outstanding. I had the feeling – and I don’t know why – that I could trust Open to deliver a consistent level of quality. It struck me as a safe bet – for friends, for parents, for a date. And I’d go back on a sunny afternoon for that suspended terrace alone…

Open

4  Star Rating   

Westerdoksplein 20, 620 1010

website 


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Reader comments

I also love this place. It’s ideal if you’re by boat as you can dock the boat underneath the restaurant.

I was at the OPEN just last week for a Christmas lunch with my office colleagues.
Just like Kira, I was impressed with the superb location and interiors.
We hadn’t booked a table which was a bit risky, however the staff was promptly showing us a nice table for 3 right next to the kitchen.
As I happen to be Italian and have experience as chef on my CV, I was just as keen to check the 3 chefs out while operating.
I was pleased to see the relaxed atmosphere and lack of stress in the kitchen. I admit the place was not busy, which may explains the laid back attitude.
The service from our waiter was impeccable, he was polite, cute (which helps) and almost flirtatious.
The bar staff was less impressive, he was cute too, but there was not eye contact with us customers and not much care in how to serve the coffee and drinks nor when. In fact he served us coffee before dessert and you could clearly tell he didn’t really care much.
The food, which is the most important aspect, disappointed me a bit.
We all went for the specials.

I had home made herbs-sausages with mash potatoes and sauerkraut. A simple dish but potentially delicious. The sausages, or should I say the 13 inches piece of overly cooked meat, dried out and a bit too porky for my taste. Sitting on a frugal spoon of potato mash, next to a modest portion of sauerkraut (which by the way, was very nice!)
I’m not afraid to declare myself a big eater and I have grown to appreciate the smaller portions given by Dutch restaurants, yet I expect to be close to satiated after a full meal. Sadly this was not the case.

My colleagues went for fish which I would have loved to go for, but as we were drinking Rosso del Salento, I had no intention to ruin my lunch with the wrong choice of wine. I left my boss to believe that wine was suitable with prawns and sole on a creamy sauce. They were both happy with it, but one of my colleague (not my boss) felt the portion was not enough.

Dessert was a plum terrine served on a biscuit base. Nice and cute.
My colleague asked for ice-cream which was not on the menu and our lovely waiter went out of his way to provide him with some ice cream. I thought that was worth mentioning.
Dessert was followed by a decent espresso (a rare find) and Grappa for my boss. (I was on antibiotics…sigh…)
Dinner took 2 1/2 hours, which in my opinion, was a bit too long.
Nonetheless, the bill was close to 120 euro if I remember correctly, which was good value for money.

I’m not sure I will go back to OPEN though, maybe for coffee and cake on a Thursday afternoon….

Thanks for the comment, Melissa – very comprehensive and great for people thinking of visiting the restaurant!