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Hemelse Modder and the disturbing case of the Rillettes Trauma

You know when you get a song stuck in your head and – even though it’s by Justin Bieber – you just cannot seem to shake it? It’s a horrible song, and you know you don’t like it, and yet there it is – for days. Well (and stick with me on the metaphor here), that’s what happened with my starter at Hemelse Modder last weekend…

It was all highly disturbing. I ordered the rilletes. I order rillettes pretty much every time I see them on a menu. So it’s fair to say, I both know that I like rillettes, and know when they’re good. These were not. Rillettes should be like pulled pork, but then melting with goose fat. (Or something like that – they don’t have to be pork, and the fat doesn’t have to be goose – but you catch my drift.) These were gristly, flabby, under-seasoned, and (for some reason best known to the chef) cut with parsley and something that was probably mushroom-based, given my gag reflex. I finished only one out of the three quenelles on my plate, but they got stuck in my head like a Robin Thicke video all the same. I still wanted to gag 24 hours later.

Fortunately for all concerned (I don’t think my tables mates could bear to hear any more about my Rillettes Trauma by this point) the main course was a big improvement. It was also vegetarian, which is rare for me in a restaurant situation, but then again it involved artichokes (always a draw). The artichoke hearts were stuffed with lentils and goat’s cheese, and came with a few random florets of broccoli. It was all quite tasty but presented in a way that said “Tuesday night supper at home”, not “Saturday night out in a restaurant”.

Hemelse Modder literally means “heavenly mud” in Dutch, but it’s also a dessert. I mistakenly assumed that it might resemble a Mississippi mud pie (because of the mud thing, obviously) but it transpired that it’s just chocolate mousse. Yup, good old plain and wholesome chocolate mousse. I guess I can’t really fault the restaurant for this (if they’d made what I had in mind, it would no longer have been Hemelse Modder) but it didn’t help my overall impression of home cooking gone wrong.

hemelse modder

All this being said, the service was a joy. Our Dutch waiter decided to start giving my American boyfriend a language lesson (“Hebben-jullie-een-keuze-kunnen-maken” all enunciated syllable-by-syllable), the wine suggestions were appropriate, and I don’t remember having to perform the usual Dance of the Flailing Customer to get attention – so it must have been good.

Perhaps I just ordered badly… or the rillettes chef was off sick… or the dog ate his recipe. All I know is that no one needs the culinary equivalent of Who Let the Dogs Out on their plate on a Saturday night.

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Hemelse Modder (European)
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