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Appraisal time at Toscanini

A few weeks ago, my ex-boss (from the bad old days when I used to commute for two hours a day on the awfulness that is London public transport) met my current Studio Manager and gave me an abbreviated performance review – right in the middle of the pub.

‘The best thing about working with Vicky,’ they both concluded, while I blushed in embarrassment, ‘is her attention to detail… The worst thing about working with Vicky, is her endless obsession with the bloody detail!’ Hmm, seems there’s no pleasing some people…

To make up for this (and the fact that he inadvertently walked out of said pub without paying) my ex-boss took me out for dinner this week to Toscanini. It’s a well-known Italian on the Lindengracht – so well known, in fact, that it’s a job to get a table, even on a Monday evening.

After vying for attention at the reservations book and discovering that the table wasn’t quite ready, I hung around at the bar hoping for a drink since clearly no one was going to offer me one. Aperitif finally in hand, we headed for our table, where we waded through the extensive wine list and menu. Meanwhile, a bottle of sparkling water was plonked on the table, without any danger of anyone pouring it for us.

Firstly, I ordered the mixed antipasti, which were actually delicious (but I am always a fan of antipasti – I assume through indecisiveness and frequent food envy). My plate held an array of carpaccio with a creamy horseradish dressing, caprese salad with sweet basil and moreish mozzarella, a dressed sashimi of cod, grilled vegetables, mortadella with pesto and sautéed mushrooms. I couldn’t tell you if the latter were any good because I don’t eat mushrooms. This fact distresses me on a daily basis, I can assure you.

Antipasti misto
Antipasti misto

My ex-boss had a terrine of calf’s tongue with horseradish and radicchio, which was excellent and allowed him to utter the immortal words, ‘would you like some more tongue?’ More blushing ensued.

Kalf's tongue
Terrine of calf's tongue

My main (technically a primo) was a lasagne of peas, artichoke and mozzarella. It lacked bite and would’ve benefitted from a good squeeze of lemon and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Or indeed a different type of cheese altogether.

Pea, artichoke and mozzarella lasagne
Pea, artichoke and mozzarella lasagne

Meanwhile, my fellow diner had a ‘galetto’ (or poussin, as we discovered) with lemon and its own jus. We also ordered a side of vegetables to share, comprising buttered spinach and slightly under-roasted breaded fennel.

Galetto with lemon jus
Galetto with lemon jus

At €100 for two, excluding tip, Toscanini’s two courses plus wine were not exactly a bargain. And the service? Let’s just say that if I were to give them an impromptu appraisal, their attention to detail wouldn’t be scoring highly.

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Toscanini (Italian)
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