Seasonal cooking archive

August: beetroot and hard-to-find cheeses


A few days ago, a friend introduced me to Bario Market. It’s not actually a market – more a kind of extended corner shop. But is has everything you’ve ever wanted in Amsterdam and couldn’t find (or could possibly find in some expat shop or posh deli but at three times the price): we’re talking [...]

July: okra and the pre-Road Trip Gumbo


Some of you might be aware that I’m planning a bit of a U.S. road trip in the autumn. We’re driving from Chicago to Texas, via the south-eastern states*: taking in some rednecks, rodeo and – of course – a whole load of real American food. I’m thinking Texan barbecue, Cajun spices, Atlantan seafood, and [...]

June and the Return of the Humble Potato


There’s only so many Michelin stars a girl can eat in the space of a month before her bank account starts to protest. So this month’s seasonal ingredient is about as cheap and cheerful as they come. Source of history lessons about famines in Ireland… source of endless vexations on my father’s part when the [...]

May: ostrich egg-stravaganza


I’m not sure if there’s even a season for ostrich eggs, and if there is it probably isn’t in May. And besides, I got the egg for Easter, which was in April anyway. But I thought it was so damn cool that I’d come into possession of this enormous, white, dinosaur-esque ostrich egg that I [...]

April: three ways with watercress, and two with service


On Friday, when I was gathering together the ingredients for this post, I had two very different experiences of service that I wanted to share with you. I’d decided to make crabcakes with watercress mayonnaise and watercress salad. So, first things first, I headed to a fishmonger’s in Chinatown on my way home from work. [...]

March and the flexible friend of vegetables: cauliflower


There’s a school of thought that says the amount of time people spend watching cookery programs is inversely proportional to the time they spend cooking. In other words, the more TV we watch, the less we cook. In a general sense, they probably have a point. But cookery programmes are one of the few genuinely [...]

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