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Reader recommendation: Moes

Please note that since writing this blog post, Moes has closed down

It’s a mixed bag, this blogging business. Sometimes you get verbally abused by people who disagree with you, which isn’t much fun. And sometimes you get extremely appreciative emails from nice people suggesting nice places to eat. Which is obviously lovely – keep those ones coming, please! Last Friday was one such occasion. So Keiron – whoever you are – this review’s for you.

According to my well informed reader, Moes does a pay-what-you-think-it’s-worth type of concept on so-called “Meatless Mondays”, although the day I was there (a meaty Friday) the restaurant was offering three generous courses for a fixed €30 or less, depending on what you ordered. It’s a homely, organic sort of place, where the services is friendly if not always the fastest. Although our speed of ordering may have had something to do with the fact that every dish sounded like exactly what I was craving. ..

I couldn’t have everything, however, so I opted for a rustic pâté with chutney to start, which wasn’t very inspired but hit the spot after a long week’s work. My friends ordered the parsnip soup and the mackerel brandade, both of which were delicious.

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Next, I had haddock with mash, simple wintry veg and smoked butter – the portion was perhaps a little too generous (although I can’t really complain about that) and the smoky flavour not as pronounced as I’d hoped, but it was comforting and cuddly. The spinach cannelloni was also enormous, but felt very virtuous since the “pasta” was made with kohlrabi instead. The sauce of pumpkin and Jerusalem artichoke was sweet and delicious, but the whole dish was a little cold.

Dessert was meringue with half a poached pear that had been covered with sugar and brûléed, and the Dutch yoghurt-like “hangop”. I liked it a lot. My friends fared less well – they all chose the sticky toffee cake, in which “cake” was the operative word. The original Lake District pudding it certainly wasn’t, but a rather dry, bland slice of brown.

I suppose Moes, too, was a mixed bag, but it’s one that I’d happily dip into again. For €30, a moreish menu and a general feeling of home comfort, it’s still a recommendation I’m happy I had.

all the info

Moes (European)
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