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Louter and the luxury of life in the fast lane

Please note that since writing this blog post, Cafe Louter has closed down

To offer you a little insight into the way the Amsterdam Foodie’s brain works, I’m sitting here trying to think of an angle for today’s restaurant review. As you’ve probably noticed, I rarely dive straight in with ‘the restaurant was great/rubbish/slow/fashionable’. My brother thinks this is a weakness; I think it’s why you read it. But anyway.

So I’m sitting here considering the weather (it’s already 26 degrees in my living room, even though all the blinds are drawn), the World Cup (England got nailed by the Germans yesterday, and the Dutch are playing this afternoon), the tennis (Wimbledon is on)… but all these seem too obvious. Then there’s the situational stuff: as in, what I was actually doing on the night I went to the restaurant in question (Café Louter, in this case). It was spontaneous after-work drinking, which led to cocktails, which led to a horrific hangover the next day. All of which you’ve heard before – too many times.

Maybe I just don’t have enough head space to find an angle today. My schedule is reaching a level of ridiculousness that means I just had to email back my editor at the NYT and tell him I couldn’t write the article I’d pitched to him last week because my head was in danger of exploding. I have a cook book to finish, translate into Dutch, photograph and design (admittedly, I won’t be doing all of those things myself). I have two Hidden Kitchen events in the next month (having just cooked for the June edition last night). I have a cookery student arriving in my kitchen in approximately five hours. And that’s just the first half of the to-do list of the job I am – in theory – doing only one day a week. Still, it’s a luxury problem, being busy, I always think.

So let’s just get on with it, shall we? Café Louter is on the cusp of Oud West and de Baarsjes, which is one of my favourite parts of the city. It’s young and fun and full of pretty people. Much like the café itself, in fact. The menu is sort of Holland’s answer to the gastropub. It’s an eetcafé that’s trying not to be. So we ordered things like risotto and ravioli, while people around us had poshed-up salads and steaks.

Crab ravioli with saffron sauce

My ravioli came al dente (arguably slightly too al dente) and filled with crab and peas. The saffron sauce was too creamy and there was too much of it; I would’ve preferred a saffron butter. But then I always think that in these ravioli situations.

Asparagus risotto with sweet potato crisps

Nicola’s risotto tasted good, if not entirely Italian in the rice department. It came with asparagus and a poached egg on top, which reminded me of something I’d re-created off the tele with an egg yolk broken into the middle of the risotto. If I’m honest, I kind of preferred my version.

We sat in front of a wide open window with a carafe of rosé. It was a Friday night and the long, light evening stretched ahead of us like a red carpet. It would’ve been hard not to like. When buried in a to-do list the length of Heston Blumenthal’s shopping list and a schedule that might flap the Very Unflappable Delia Smith, it’s spontaneous nights like these that re-charge your batteries.

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Cafe Louter (European)
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