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Harkema: abstinence makes the heart grow fonder

Please note that since writing this blog post, Harkema has closed down

Ok, so I cracked. I’d just delivered my annual annual report (all 16,000 words of it), I’d had a stressful week at work, I was meeting a drinking buddy in the pub… At some point around 8 o’clock on Friday, my resolve melted – much like the snow outside. It started with one Affligem; it ended dancing round the Waterhole at 3 am, abandoning several glasses of half-drunk Heineken (which I hate, usually, and hated still more the next morning) and wobbling home on the bike, wondering if the aforementioned beers might reappear en route. No, I was not proud of myself. Frailty, thy name is Vicky.

Anyway, in between all this, I managed to go to Harkema for dinner (and – let’s be honest – a few glasses of wine). It’s a big warehouse-sized space, with acoustics to match, filled with beautiful people watching more beautiful people, some of whom I think were supposed to be waiting staff. I’d only been once before a couple of years ago, and only to the bar – its USP is supposed to be its wine list, not that one was particularly forthcoming – next to which the easterly wall is lined entirely with wine bottles. Clearly not the kind of place for a teetotaller.

Entrecote with Hollandaise

Rather unimaginatively, I ordered steak. It was cooked to order, but wasn’t massively tender (I doubt it was originally marbled with much fat) and hadn’t been seasoned. It came with a foamy Hollandaise sauce, good chips (with a sort of mustard-mayo) and a salad whose large, un-chopped leaves inadvertently formed a cup for the vast amounts of dressing.

Chocolate-hazelnut mousse cake with Oreos

Dessert was a chocolate-hazelnut mousse cake with a base of Oreo cookies. Incidentally, I’m not entirely sure why the Oreos were supposed to be a selling point – they taste fake, like most American chocolate and chocolate-based products. The topping lacked depth of flavour as well, although the yoghurty dollop beside it was a welcome contrast. The whole thing made sense in theory; in practice it just needed to be executed with much better ingredients.

Dinner came to €33 each for two courses, plus a fair amount of house wine and including a modest tip. The price is friendly I suppose, given Harkema’s aspirations to trendiness and close-to-Dam location. We also landed a table for eight at 9 o’clock on a Friday – without reservation – which is no mean feat in Amsterdam, and handy to remember.

As for Dry January, I have not entirely given up giving up. But if two weeks’ abstinence results in bingeing and lightweight-ness, I’m not sure that total teetotalism is really for me. And so I return to the biggest piece of common sense my parents ever taught me: everything in moderation. Including moderation itself.

all the info

Harkema (International)
€€

Nes 67 (Dam) / CLOSED
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